Tuesday, January 20, 2009
What are you doing in Ortobello in January?
In one of our guide books, the section on our area of Tuscany ("The Lost Corner of Tuscany") they have this to say:
The inland reaches of Grosseto province form the largest stretch of territory in Italy north of the Abruzzo without any well-known attractions. Part of the Etruscan heartland, these towns have been poor and usually misgoverned since--by the Romans, the noble Aldobrandeschi, the popes and the Tuscan dukes. Some don't even consider it part of Tuscany, and in many ways it has more in common with the haunted expanses of northern Lazio over the border.
Is it any wonder that few tourists visit this area? And in winter there are virtually no tourists. We alone seem to be the only non-residents as we travel around the area. Thus the comment from one English-speaking shop proprietor -- What are you doing in Ortobello in January?
Perhaps this is exactly why we are enjoying the experience. I assure you, it is beautiful.
Ortobello, by-the-way, is situated on an isthmus. Once a spit reaching into a lagoon filled with wildlife and now a natural preserve, the spit was extended to reach Monte Argenario in the mid'1800's. Some of the walls of the original 17th century Spanish garrison remain. It's on an impossibly thin strip of land with lagoons on both sides.
Having visited the other major port on Monte Argentario, we headed through Orbetello to the other major port, Port'Ercole. albeit more sleepy one, on the other side of the island. The village is dominated by a Spanish castle and remnants of forts from that period on every hill around the bays. Port'Ercole has a split personality. One bay is filled with fishing boats and villagers lounge around on benches and beachside cafes and restaurants. At this time of the year, not much is open, but it was warm and we ate lunch outside at a restaurant right on the beach. The other bay is a large, modern boat yard and marina with huge, expensive yachts everywhere. We scribbled down the names of several impressive yachts then Googled them when we got home. One especially, Virtuelle, is a current contender in all of the major yacht races around the Mediterranean.
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