Tuesday, January 20, 2009
Pitigliano at night
We were told by our neighbor to approach Pitigliano at night. The picture here doesn't do it justice but gives you an idea of the visual impact of this ancient town built not on top of the rock but rising out of it with the rock forming the foundation of the town's structures. As you approach the town on a bridge traversing a deep gorge there are caves every few yards dug into the rock that are now stables or storehouses but used to be Etruscan tombs. The picturesque Medieval center was once the town's Jewish ghetto but was destroyed in 1945. Remaining is an old synagogue and a museum, "La Piccola Gerusalemme" where you can see the remains of the synagogue, matzo oven, Kosher slaughter house, ritual bath and dye works but which is closed this time of year. The wine boutique we visited had a whole section of Kosher wines, the only selection we've seen. Here I purchased the store's own handmade castagne in siropo (roasted chestnuts in syrup) and pici, a thick, hand-rolled pasta. The pasta is made by rolling the strip of pasta between one's palms. (This is from Wikipedia: It is eaten with a variety of sauces particularly alle briciole (breadcrumbs), all'aglione (spicy garlicky tomato sauce), alla boscaiola (with porcini) or ragu (meat sauce). But it is best eaten with sauces containing game such as al cinghale (wild boar), all lepre (hare) or all'anatra (duck). Yum.
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