Tuesday, January 20, 2009
On the Etruscan trail
Sovana is a beautiful town with a central street paved in red brick and surrounded by vineyards and olive groves. Serendipitously, I had cut out an article in the Seattle Times by Kristin Jackson, "Past Perfect, just down the road is inpresent-day Tuscany," Etruscan roads, medieval villages make enticing Italian landscape, two years before I knew I would be living in the area. In the article she writes:
I just soaked up the mysterious, moody feel of this rural area of central Italy, a captivating mix of Etruscan ruins anad medieval hilltop villages, of rolling fields and stone farmhouses edged by gnarled forests.
We strolled through this lovely town, purchased our requisite Etruscan souvenir (a painted, etched replica of an Etruscan pottery piece), visited the Chiesa di Santa Maria, a Romanesque church with a 9th-century ciborium in white marble, one of the last remaining pre-Romanesque works left in Tuscany (says one guide book) and some early Renaissance frescos. Then we headed to the 9th century cathedral down the way. Finally, we ate in a small family trattorie and I had, what else at this time of year, Cinghale (wild boar).
Speaking of wild boar, we saw our very first one crossing in front of our car (in a hurry I might add since hunters couldn't have been far behind) and it was BIG. Much bigger than we had imagined. We have seen pig prints in our olive orchard with gunshot shells littered around. We hear hunters every morning shooting in the surrounding woods. But finally, we saw an actual boar.
Here's a recipe from ciboviaggiando for Stuffed Wild Boar (though it's not stuffed; also, the translation is amusing so I am copying it verbatim.
You need: Wild boar meat chopped, garlic, rosemary, bay leaves, chilli pepper, Evo Oil, wine, salt tomato.
Preparation: Place the meat in a saucepan on the flame and let it "spit" water for twice (to let it lost the wild smell). Beat the garlic (just press it) along with rosemary, bay leaves and chilli pepper. Let the beated herbs fry in a lot of Olive Oil with the wild boar meat. Let it brown, add a glassful of good red wine. Let it evaporate. Add a little tomato (just to tan it), salt it and keep on cooking for about 2 hours until the meat is tender. Add water if necessary. Serve it hot.
Makes perfect sense to me. Now if only I had a gun.
I just soaked up the mysterious, moody feel of this rural area of central Italy, a captivating mix of Etruscan ruins anad medieval hilltop villages, of rolling fields and stone farmhouses edged by gnarled forests.
We strolled through this lovely town, purchased our requisite Etruscan souvenir (a painted, etched replica of an Etruscan pottery piece), visited the Chiesa di Santa Maria, a Romanesque church with a 9th-century ciborium in white marble, one of the last remaining pre-Romanesque works left in Tuscany (says one guide book) and some early Renaissance frescos. Then we headed to the 9th century cathedral down the way. Finally, we ate in a small family trattorie and I had, what else at this time of year, Cinghale (wild boar).
Speaking of wild boar, we saw our very first one crossing in front of our car (in a hurry I might add since hunters couldn't have been far behind) and it was BIG. Much bigger than we had imagined. We have seen pig prints in our olive orchard with gunshot shells littered around. We hear hunters every morning shooting in the surrounding woods. But finally, we saw an actual boar.
Here's a recipe from ciboviaggiando for Stuffed Wild Boar (though it's not stuffed; also, the translation is amusing so I am copying it verbatim.
You need: Wild boar meat chopped, garlic, rosemary, bay leaves, chilli pepper, Evo Oil, wine, salt tomato.
Preparation: Place the meat in a saucepan on the flame and let it "spit" water for twice (to let it lost the wild smell). Beat the garlic (just press it) along with rosemary, bay leaves and chilli pepper. Let the beated herbs fry in a lot of Olive Oil with the wild boar meat. Let it brown, add a glassful of good red wine. Let it evaporate. Add a little tomato (just to tan it), salt it and keep on cooking for about 2 hours until the meat is tender. Add water if necessary. Serve it hot.
Makes perfect sense to me. Now if only I had a gun.
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