Monday, December 29, 2008

The 3,000 year old olive tree

We headed to Magliano in Toscana, a hilltop, walled Medieval town to see the 3,000 year-old olive tree. On our way, we encountered these hunters who were happy to pose for us with their guns. Every morning, very early, we hear their guns shooting Cinghale or Uccelli (wild boar or birds) and there are hunters everywhere in the country. In town, we ended up in an Enoteca tasting wines, olive oil (the proprietor's own made by his own hand!) on bread that had garlic rubbed on it and then salted. We purchased wine, olive oil and a cookie called Brutta Ma Buona (ugly but good) made in nearby Ortobello. Then we head for Talamone, missed it and ended in Porto Saint Stefano on a pennisula that is almost a complete island except for two slices of land with roads in and out. We ate at a restaurant that jetted out over the water, took in the views across the water to see the snow capped Mt. Amiata and the new snow on the hills surrounding it. We were able to see Talamone cross the water and the imposing high hills of the natural park we hope to eventually hike.




We picked olives from this 3,000 year old tree which is also called Ulivo della Strega or witches' olive because it is said to be the site of ritual dances in pagan days and is still haunted. It didn't seem the least haunted to me but we were not there at night under a full moon, so you never know. And though the sign says that it is a 3,000 year old tree planted by the Etruscans, a guide book says its over 1,000 years old. I guess 3,000 years is a bit over 1,000 so it seems an accurate number. In any case, the entire grove has very large, gnarled trees and if I read the sign right, the olives on the trees are there for the taking.

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