Saturday, October 24, 2009

Biking Hvar

Hvar is the ritsy island having celebrity-worthy clubs and restaurants in Hvar town. We spotted no celebrities but it was a glamorous place. We bought some of this cheese on a lunch break on the island and it was delicious. The photo really doesn't go with the rest but I liked it represents the availability of homemade, locally grown products everywhere we went on the islands.

Our elegant hotel sat above the water and every night we had cocktails before dinner on the deck, recapping the days travails and achievements. In the morning we again gathered here to be briefed on our day's route. The view is out to Croatia's president's home (away from the capitol).

One night on Hvar, we had cooking lessons at the home of Magrit. According to Matej, Magrit cooks for the president when he stays at his island home (which we could see out of our hotel bedroom window). Besides homemade grappa which we drank pretty much everywhere and home we visited, we had seafood risotto that our group helped (in the loosest sense) make.

Taking a break from biking to visit a fishing net maker and repairer. Just behind the village's medieval church and fortress was this man hard at work on his nets. We visited and he was pleased to be the center of our attention and admiration.

On our last ride, Marko prepared a picnic of traditional Croatia foods.









Hotel Podstine







Cooking lessons at Magrit's












Village fishing net maker/repairer







Traditional Croatian picnic



Beautiful Vis

When we arrived on Vis, the first thing we did was rent bicycles to explore the paths along the harbor. The next day we rented a Beverly Piaggia with 125-cc and enough horsepower to take us up the very steep roads over the top of the island to the fishing village of Komiza, a winery on top of the island, several swimming beaches so clear and blue I felt renewed not just refreshed, Tito's hide out during WWII as part of the resistance, and a submarine parking space carved into the hill. It's only been in the past decade that Croatians, never mind tourists, have been able to visit Vis. As a former military base, the island was off limits to non-military personnel. Of all the islands (and this is a hard call) Vis was my favorite.

Komiza
Octopus, grapes being delivered to the winery right on the waterfront from vineyards high on the hill, a wine supply store, fishermen imbiding after the fish market closed, one of many bronze wall installations around the small little village, and the best white wine we tasted in all of Croatia, reminding us of the really fresh tasting Vina Verde we drank in Lisbon.

































Our hotel on the waterfront, view from our room, looking down on the fishing boats from our room, the sailboats that line up each night along the riva right outside our window.